ESL Carnival - List of Things to Bring With You to China
Traveling & Teaching in Beijing? This is the most comprehensive list of much needed items that we have assembled during our previous travels to China during 2004-08. (Thanks to Glenda Vickery & Grinnell College). Please keep in mind that you will have to adjust most items mentioned accordingly to the prices of USA inflation. Written by Ms. Vickery /Grinnell College '00 & proudly reprinted.
INTRODUCTION
This page was written for those students or recent graduates considering traveling to China for the first time, or making a second trip to China for the purpose of teaching English. Far from answering your questions exhaustively, this site is meant to be a starting place. Attempts have been made to provide additional contacts or resources under each section. Hopefully, this starting place will break down the preparation process into a more manageable and efficient approach by outlining some of the primary concerns to consider. Going to China can be an awesome experience and it doesn't need to be a difficult, frustrating ordeal to get there. Grinnell encourages students to go abroad as part of their liberal arts education, so pursue your interests.
PASSPORT
If you do not yet have a passport, you can find all the information you need at the following government site: http://travel.state.gov/passport_services.html. Before you make any other preparations, apply for your passport, as it can be a lengthy process. The passport is your identification as an American citizen.
Before going abroad, make a copy of your passport and pack it separately from the original. If you lose your passport, this copy will help you get a replacement. Ideally, you will want to go to the American Embassy with your passport and register upon arrival if there is one in your area. This way, the embassy will have a copy in the event that you lose your passport, and you can be located in the event of an emergency.
Passport Warning
Once in China, people will need to see your passport for various reasons, particularly to register you at the police station as a resident of the area. Aside from these initial registration routines, it is not customary to surrender your passport to anyone. If someone writes in your contract that you should surrender your passport to your employers, protest the terms of the contract. If such employers are not willing to negotiate contract terms, move on to another, more orthodox jobsite. There is always another school down the street desperate for English teachers.
VISA
You must obtain a Visa from the Chinese Embassy or Consulate in order to enter China. A Visa grants you permission to enter a country a certain number of times for a specific amount of time for a specific purpose. You can obtain a visa several ways depending on your circumstances. Unless you are only applying for a temporary tourist visa, you will need to present a letter of invitation from your employer or your school to the consulate when you apply. (Normally, you won't apply for your visa until after you have secured a job or been accepted into a program of study). You can find specific information on applying for your visa at http://www.china-embassy.org/eng/c2682.html.
Basically, you can expect to need:
$30
Job or school invitation letter
Passport
Possibly a physical exam.
AIRFARE
Search the internet for the best airfare rates. Laugh aloud at any 4 figure quotes and keep searching. Depending on the season you travel, you can sometimes find one-way fares for less than $400 and two-way fares for less than $700. (If you travel during peak seasons, like the end of August, a one-way ticket can cost as much as $700). Roundtrip airfare is not required for a visa to China, though most foreigners choose to buy a round-trip open-ended ticket.
Since you are probably going to China for an extended stay (and will want to pack a lot), be sure to ask about the weight limit on luggage before going to the airport. Penalties for overweight luggage can be more expensive than sending an express international package.
Note: If you are easily air-sick, consider flying with a western airline company. Chinese pilots sometimes fly planes the same way they drive cars: without any regard for your comfort or peace of mind. Otherwise, economy fares on most airlines include the same services.
TRAVEL NECESSITIES
Necessities for travel depend on the traveler but, there are a few things to keep in mind when going to China:
A. You will not be able to buy a bath towel in China that is half as good as one of your mother's old dish rags. The towels you will find on the Chinese market do not absorb much water and some shed lint on your body as you try to dry yourself. Pack one good towel.
B. Depending on which city you go to, you may not be able to find a single bottle of deodorant. So don't forget to pack a good supply of it, or instruct a family member to mail some to you.
C. If you are attached to any particular toiletries, pack a supply. Tampons are not easily found, and only the O.B. brand is available (without an applicator). Decide whether you want to trust Chinese condoms. Will any brand of soap be good enough, or do you have sensitive skin? There is not much room in one suitcase, but one or two trusted luxuries will go a long way for your mental health during your stay.
D. Consider any medical needs. If you live on Pepto Bismol, better pack a bottle. If you need birth control pills, consult your doctor about an adequate supply. And of course, if you take medication for any health condition, such as diabetes or depression, make a plan with your doctor before leaving town.
E. If you are a large person, height or weight wise, pack an adequate selection of clothing. Chinese clothes sizes on average are smaller. For example, a woman's shoe size 9 is extremely difficult to find in China, particularly southern China, unless you shop in the men's department. If you wear a medium in the States, you might have to wear XL in China. Despite the lack of selection, tailors are abundant in every city, so you can always go get measured for the outfit of your dreams for a reasonable price.
F. If you want unlimited internet access in your own room, consider carrying a laptop with you. (You will need a phone with local dialing access in your room). Laptops in China are quite expensive. If you do not have a severe addiction to the internet, you can just go to a local corner internet bar to check your email whenever its convenient.
Unless you have some odd food addiction, you can find almost any standard Western food item at specialty shops in larger cities of China (items such as ketchup, bacon, peanut butter, pasta, jam, etc.) Most importantly it should be noted that if you take nothing to China but a small overnight bag, you will still survive quite well on the abundant selection of products available on the Chinese market.
MONETARY CONCERNS
Basically, however much American money you take with you to China and convert is the same amount you will be allowed to convert back to American money and take with you when you leave. (So don't lose any of your exchange receipts). There are two exceptions to this. The first exception is changing money on the black market, which, of course, is not recommended since it is violating the laws of your host country. The second exception can be found in an employment contract. When negotiating your contract with potential employers, be sure to inquire about what percentage of your salary you will be able to convert to American dollars each month (an average is about 70 percent.) Upon arrival, you can exchange money at the airport and thereafter at the Bank of China.
The Bank of China will cash and convert Traveler's Cheques. They allow foreigners to open savings accounts, using US or PRC currency. In addition, they will wire money internationally (though this is quite costly). They will also allow you to draw money off of your credit card at the Bank of China. ATM machines are becoming more popular, but don't expect to be able to use them to draw money from your home bank account. The cost of living is cheap and western foreigners are paid well, so limited banking services shouldn't be a significant problem.
COST OF LIVING
The average Chinese salary is less than the salary you will receive. Unless you are a chronic compulsive spender, you probably won't be worrying about how to make ends meet. Most of your accommodations are provided through your employer or school, so your financial decisions will most likely not involve housing or utilities. If you indulge yourself with western luxuries occasionally (buy dairy products, take a taxi, hit the local disco on Saturday night, and regularly smoke cigarettes) you can survive on about $120-240 (roughly 1-2000 RMB) per month. If you are teaching English in China, your salary will be $200 (2000 RMB) plus. (If you want to drink American Whiskey, take taxis everywhere you go, and spend your weekends visiting other cities or tourist spots in China, you might need to take another small job--which is entirely possible).
Exchange Rate
Chinese currency is called RenMinBi (RMB), the people's money, a single unit being called Yuan. The exchange rate fluxuates around 8.2 RMB per US Dollar. You can find the current rate of exchange http://www.xe.com.
Prices
Here is a random list of approximate prices (which may vary slightly from city to city or vendor to vendor):
One can of Coca-cola 3 Yuan
One Chinese dinner at a restaurant 12 Yuan
McDonald's value meal 19 Yuan
Chinese cigarettes 5 Yuan
Chinese beer 4 Yuan
Taxi ride 5-25 Yuan
New bicycle 200 Yuan
VCD player 500 Yuan (and up)
VCDs, Cds, CdROMs 10 Yuan
Cell phone 1000 Yuan (and up)
Week supply of fresh vegetables 5 Yuan
Local bus ride 1 Yuan
Rent your own apartment
Big city (Beijing/Shanghai) 4000 Yuan per month (and up)
Small city (Dalian/Qingdao) 500 Yuan per month
T-shirt 30 Yuan
A Watermelon 2 Yuan (in season)
Internet Access (per hour) 3 Yuan
Qipao (traditional dress) 200 Yuan (and up)
Mosquito repellant incense 3 Yuan (per box of 10)
Public shower and massage 10 Yuan (and up)
House cleaning service 5 Yuan
Movie theater ticket 10 Yuan
MAP RESOURCES
You can find maps (in the English language) of China at the following website: http://www.theodora.com. If these maps are not detailed enough, try using a search engine, for example, www.google.com or www.metacrawler.com. The best all around starting place for your research, whether you are looking for maps or cuisine, will be the Lonely Planet's Guide to China.
TEACHING ENGLISH
How to Find Job Advertisements
There are more English teaching jobs in China than there are English teachers, so feel free to be selective. Because the school management, reputation, and contract conditions so often change, it is impractical to list contacts here. However, there are a growing amount of resources on the Internet, including job classifieds specifically tailored for English teaching jobs in China. The most favored site is Dave's ESL Café at www.eslcafe.com. Dave's site not only includes hundreds of updated job opportunities and contacts, but it also has sections for ESL teaching suggestions, school ratings, and much more. Another well liked site is www.teach-in-china.com. This site allows you to target specific areas of China for your job search, and also provides appropriate contact information for each school listed.
Choosing a School - Weighing Your Options
Contract Expectations: As a guideline, you should expect a school to provide you with airfare compensation, free accommodations, a monthly salary, and some limited medical insurance. On average, one semester of teaching merits compensation for one-way airfare, and one year of teaching merits compensation for your roundtrip fare. You must decide for yourself if the accommodations provided are acceptable. If you think you will not be comfortable to spend a year without a particular appliance, see if you can negotiate it, since employers are often willing to install a phone or a refrigerator in order to secure your teaching commitment. Again, an acceptable salary amount will depend on your own lifestyle needs. 2000 RMB per month will not leave you in a position of near-destitution by any stretch of the imagination, but it probably won't help you save up for a short trip to Nepal or Thailand on your way home. And as far as the medical insurance goes, don't expect it to cover your expenses at a western hospital, because its only good for limited services at the Chinese hospitals).
Salary: The average salary for an English teacher in China is between 2 - 8000 RMB per month, more than double most salaries of your counterpart Chinese teachers. Sometimes positions pay more, depending on how desperate or isolated the school is. Public schools will usually offer lower paying positions, because they are the better schools in China, often in better locations with better management, (so they do not have so much trouble recruiting new teachers despite the lower pay rates). If you want to find a higher paying job, you might try focusing your search on private institutions.
Accommodations: When choosing a school, pay close attention to the contract being offered. Most terms of the contract are negotiable, so don't sign the contract until you've had a chance to discuss matters of concern. (You will sign the contract after arriving, not before). Ask any question that comes to mind, don't just assume something is so basic that it will be provided. For example, if you are an athletic type person who showers twice a day, you might want to make sure you will have running water at least twice a day (and running water does not mean you will get hot water, you must ask). You will be a long way from home, so think carefully about whether you are willing to accept a contract that does not provide a phone, hot water, an ice-box, air-conditioning or heating. Some foreigners are willing to accept a lower paying job in order to work somewhere with more comfortable accommodations.
Teaching Hours: Pay attention to the number of hours you will be expected to teach. If you have a comfortable apartment provided and a decent salary, you might not be able to enjoy any of it if you are teaching 30 hours a week. Not only will you need to figure in extra time for class preparation, but standing up and talking for 30 hours in a week can exhaust you mentally as well as physically. A standard amount of teaching hours for one week is about 16 (which is about 19 classes). If you spend one hour preparing each class, that's about a forty-hour work week. How much you prepare depends on you and your students' needs. (Lower teaching hours are preferable, because you'll have the opportunity for overtime pay, or the time to occasionally teach in other locations by the hour for higher pay.)
Its advisable to secure employment with an institution before going to China, particularly if it is your first visit. This will simplify many bureaucratic matters, as well as provide you with a secure environment from which to begin exploring China. After one semester of teaching in a specific area, you will have learned what kind of options you have for working and living. Some teachers eventually find there own housing and do freelance teaching at various schools and businesses, making more money than they could under a contract and freeing themselves from obligations to a particular school or schedule. Initially however, contracting yourself with a host institution will provide a great amount of security. (You will not have trouble finding a job if you simply show up in China on a tourist visa, but you will have the added cost of a hotel when you first arrive, you might have less options to choose from for employment if you don't speak the language, and you might have to make a costly trip to Hong Kong afterwards to change your visa to a working status.)
While you only need to be a native English speaker to obtain most English teaching positions, the more advanced your degree, the more compensation you can demand. Therefore, teaching after you graduate from Grinnell will put you in a slightly better bargaining position than if you went before graduation. However, qualifications still mean very little here, so it is possible to obtain good paying jobs without a degree if you know the right people, if the school is desperate enough, or if you present yourself in a very impressive way. (If you are interested in going before graduating from Grinnell, read the section below on summer teaching contracts).
When to Go to China
If you want to go to China to teach before graduation, look for some private western companies that operate according to western school calendars. Such schools sometimes accept teachers for summer positions or other short-term contracts. In Northwest China there is a private American English school, AES, which offers such contracts in various cities. You can find AES listed in any of the websites mentioned under How to Locate Job Advertisements.
Normally, school semesters run from late August or early September until late January for the fall and from late February or early March until July for the spring. The major winter break holiday is, of course, not centered around Christmas, but around Chinese New Year based on their Lunar Calendar (which is usually around late January and early February).
Choosing a Geographical Location
If you do not speak Chinese, it is not advisable to go to an isolated area away from the ex-pat communities and educated Chinese in the larger cities. And even if you can speak some Chinese, you probably won't want to be too far outside a major urban area anyway. Below poverty conditions are abundant in the cities, so you don't need to go live in any strange locations if you are looking to see the diverse social strata of a rapidly developing China. The average standard of living in most cities is still below that of western countries and presents its own adjustment challenges. Usually, even die-hard Sino-philes don't want to be more than a short bus ride from a McDonald's for an occasional western food treat when homesickness sets in.
In a large city at least the following will be available in English:
One English news publication (state sponsored)
One English radio program (state sponsored)
One English television program (state sponsored)
English Cd's and VCD's (pirated music and movies)
19th century literature in the English language (for ESL readers)
A few good ESL speakers (English level doesn't guarantee a conversation level)
Censored internet access to English language sites (no New York Times, etc.)
Everything is censored, so the English language materials available to you will not always be desirable. Chinese media likes to report on how good things are, with the exception of whatever the United States is currently doing on the international scene. So, even in the big cities, you will experience a virtual black out of intelligent English discourse. Being able to find a few other foreigners for relaxation and conversation will a welcomed opportunity, but you will probably have to be in a big city to find other ex-pats.
If you don't want to be surrounded by other ex-pats, choose a Chinese run school with a few or no other foreign teachers. If you want to live with other ex-pats, choose a foreign run school with many foreign teachers. You might not want to live with other westerners if you hope to practice your Chinese outside of class everyday. On the other hand, you might enjoy living with other American, Canadian, British, and or Australian teachers. Remember to consider the number of ex-pat teachers employed at an institution as well as the type of management. Chinese management style tends to be much more bureaucratic and indirect, which can make your stay more frustrating. At any rate, you will have an abundance of choices within a large urban setting.
If you are a Chinese language student, you probably already know that China is divided by regions with different dialects. Roughly, the northern areas will be using Mandarin with variations of local accents. So, if you want practice your Mandarin, the south might not be an ideal location. If you are not a Chinese language student, it probably will not make any difference to you if people are speaking Cantonese, Fujianese, or Taiwanese. (It is said that most University environments will conduct activities in Mandarin on campus regardless the geographical location, as Mandarin is considered the standard).
Changing Schools - Problems with Your Host Institution
If you have a negative experience at an institution and believe that your experience is more related to institutional problems than to your own culture shock, don't be afraid to pick up and move to another school. Whether you quit or get fired, the next school will welcome you and be willing to negotiate more satisfying contract terms. You will be a very long way from home in an unfamiliar environment, so don't feel obligated to stay at an un-hospitable institution.
If you should decide to change schools after one semester, it is still possible to get compensation for your roundtrip fare, since the first school will compensate you for one-way, and the second school will also compensate you for a one-way fare (provided you commit a full semester to each institution). If you leave the school in the middle of the semester before your contract is completed, you might not get compensation. In this situation, you might have to decide between staying for airfare compensation or leaving for your own sanity. If you change schools early enough however, the next school may be willing to provide you with the semester's one-way airfare compensation if you negotiate that with them.
If you get fired, ironically, you should expect to receive your airfare compensation and often, at least an extra month's salary. Usually, this type of compensation is considered to be a humanitarian gesture, since you are too vulnerable here alone as a foreigner to be fired without any financial means of returning home or renting yourself an apartment. (Perhaps, they offer such humanitarian compensation also, because you have been registered at the police station as a guest of the host institution, which obligates them to a certain amount of responsibility for your safety.) At any rate, should you be fired, negotiate a compensation package before leaving the institution, don't let them just put you out in the street (though they probably wouldn't do something like this).
ESL TEACHING
Teaching ESL can be quite fun, particularly if you prepare fun lessons. The biggest challenge is coming up with lessons that can be interesting or exciting despite the limited language skills of your students. Simply reviewing grammar points will put everyone to sleep, including yourself. Dave's ESL site (mentioned under How to Find Job Advertisements) has a great selection of lesson ideas, but the Web is full of ESL resource sites. If you start running out of ideas, you can go to your corner Internet bar and use a search engine, like Google, Metacrawler, or Yahoo, to find ESL lessons. Some schools might ask you for a sample lesson as part of your application.
Here are three of my own lessons that were successful with all my students:
Lesson A: Commands and Body Movements
Part One: Act out several body gestures in front of the class and ask the students to describe those body gestures. Usually, they cannot describe any of them, so make a list of the board for them as you go along. When you have a good list on the board, go around the class asking students to act out the gesture on the board that you point to (to help them remember the gestures before beginning the exercise).
Part Two: Tell a student what to do, for example, "wave your hand". If the student does it correctly, he or she will then tell another student what to do, for example "shake hands with a neighbor". If the student answers incorrectly, he or she must remain standing until another student tells him or her to do something else, and he or she may only sit down after acting out the appropriate body gesture.
Examples: Wave your hand
Blink your eyes
Shake hands with someone
Wink your eye at someone
Shake your head
Raise your eyebrows
Shake your finger/fist at someone
Bat your eyelashes
Shrug your shoulders
Clear your throat
Cross your arms
Cough
Cross your legs
Hiccup
Put your hands on your hips
Sneeze
Goal: Giving commands is an easy grammar exercise and provides a context to practice new vocabulary. The vocabulary for this lesson is necessary to learn for recounting stories or events that involve people. Afterwards, the students should be able to use such expressions to describe someone's actions when they tell a story. For example, if I ask a student what his/her parents usually do when he/she gets a bad mark in school, I will expect the student to use phrases like, "my father shakes his head at me in disappointment" or "my mother raises her eyebrows in disbelief".
Lesson B: How to break up in English
Part One: Divide students into pairs. Assign each pair of students a different scenario for a couples quarrel. Have the students write a dialogue in which they must end their relationship or resolve their problem.
Part Two: After checking the dialogues and making corrections, have the students memorize their corrected dialogues and act them out during class.
Examples:
Partner A: You have dated Chris for three months. Chris is really sweet, but kind of boring. You recently met someone at work, but you don't want to ask out this new person until you've broken up with Chris.
Partner B: Chris, you really like Pat. Pat amazes you. You feel content just spending the evening sitting next to Pat watching TV. You feel like you would do anything to make Pat as happy as you are. Can you do anything to win Pat back?
Partner A: You recently had too much to drink at a party and kissed your best friend's steady lover. All of your mutual friends attended the party and saw what you did. You must have a talk with your best friend before your other friends do. You have no real interest in your best friend's lover, you cherish your best friend and want to maintain that relationship.
Partner B: You have been dreaming about the future with your lover and waiting for the right time to bring up the topic of commitment. You have intimately talked to your best friend about such feelings before. Now your friend confesses to having kissed your lover, how do you respond?
Goal: This lesson is better suited for more advanced students, but most levels enjoy this activity because it more closely reflects daily language challenges of interpersonal relationships. The goal is simply to express oneself emotionally in words, paying special attention to politeness. The students must consider the connotative meaning of words and the way they phrase sentences.
Lesson C: Every morning, this morning, tomorrow morning
Part One: Ask students what they do every morning when they wake up (this introduces the lesson in simple present tense). Write down on the board anything they cannot express (which is almost everything). Afterwards, drill them until they understand how to express each action.
Part Two: Change your question slightly by asking what a student did this morning (changing to simple past tense), and ask the next student what he or she will do tomorrow morning.
Examples:
Opened my eyes Took off my pajamas
Turned off my alarm clock Put on some pants
Got out of bed Zipped up and buttoned my pants
Put on my slippers Put on a shirt and buttoned it up
Went to the bathroom Put on socks and shoes
Wet my face Tied my shoes
Used soap to wash my face Brushed my hair
Used clean water to rinse my face Put on my watch and glasses
Wiped my face dry with a towel
Used a toothbrush and toothpaste to brush my teeth
Goal: To increase the students vocabulary for describing daily tasks. Most students know the word "clean" but they don't know "wipe", "rinse", "mop", "brush" etcetera. They know how to say put on clothes, but they usually don't have any vocabulary for zipping, buckling, ironing, hanging, folding, etc. By asking the question in different time periods, the students can practice shifting verb tenses.
STUDYING CHINESE IN CHINA
For specific information on programs and requirements contact the Chinese Department http://www.grinnell.edu/academics/areas/chinese-japanese or the Office of Off-Campus Study http://www.grinnell.edu/academics/areas/east-asian. They can help you determine what programs can be accepted for transfer credit (if you study abroad in China as an undergraduate student).
If you would like to study Chinese while you are working in China, request your future employer to find out what programs are available in the area you will be teaching. A larger city like Beijing will have many part-time programs, while in smaller cities you may have to hire a private Chinese teacher/tutor. Hiring a private teacher can be quite affordable, since there is a high workforce supply and a low customer demand. For a program of classes in most schools, be prepared to pay tuition rates that are roughly equivalent to fees of public schools in the U.S. Discuss the options with your employer before leaving,. They may be willing to offer you a tutor free of charge, initially, to help you learn enough words to get around town.
Language Partners
Beware of the language partner invitations. Every one in China now must study English beginning in Junior Middle School. Many people simply want the opportunity to practice with a native speaker. You will likely be bombarded by offers after arriving. Choose carefully, not so much because someone might take advantage of you, but because its easy to overextend yourself with so many friendly invitations. You will have to turn people down, so don't be afraid to turn down the first few people you meet (with a polite reason) if you are not comfortable. Otherwise you could fill up your schedule with a few opportunists with whom you've nothing in common.
NETWORKING or GUANXI
Almost anything you do in China will be a result of networking. There is only one thing better than knowing how to do something in China, and that is knowing people. Sometimes this so-called networking is a nice word for corruption, but usually its just people helping each other. If you need anything while you are in China, tell everyone you meet what you are looking for and usually many opportunities will begin to appear. You might want to find a new job, a good foreign restaurant, or just figure out how to mail a package at the post office. The point however, is that knowing people in China is much more important than your resume or qualifications.
This kind of network expands to people you won't really consider to be your friends, so it is not wise to burn bridges with people here, unless the situation demands it. Remember, such people may not consider you an intimate friend either, but they will still do a favor for you willingly. Implicit in this, of course, is that when other's are looking for something, they will also let you know. If you can help, great, if not, its worth your time to casually ask other people you know if they can help the person in need. Doing so will build up your Guanxi, literally, your relationships (which ideally, will open more and more options for you in Chinese society).
SOME GRINNELLIAN CONCERNS
Environmentalism
Expect little environmental concern. That heavy fog you see when you get off the plane, its smog. (China still uses coal for an energy source). Expect people to be smoking right under the NO SMOKING signs, on the bus, in the elevator, and sometimes even in the classroom. Don't look for trashcans on the street, you'll notice small piles of trash where you can deposit your garbage. If you have a weak stomach, try not to breath (or look) when you use a Chinese toilet. (And don't go anywhere without a supply of your own toilet paper). If you believe that 'cleanliness is next to godliness,' China might not be the place for you.
Vegetarianism / Animal Rights
Forget anything you ever heard about Asian diets being healthy. Learn how to say "not so much oil" and "no MSG" in Chinese. You won't likely ever be served a big honkin' piece of steak here, but hardly any dish is without meat strips for flavoring. Contrary to popular Western belief, there is no significant population of vegetarian Buddhists living in China. Still, you should be able to maintain a descent diet if you study the local menus or ask around. (Tofu is the most popular alternative here for vegetarian foreigners, but don't expect to find an abundant supply or selection of beans in China . )
With so much controversy between the U.S. and China over human rights, don't expect to see much in the way of animal rights. As standards of living gradually rise for many Chinese in the cities, it seems popular to have a small dog for pet (rather than for dinner), but its also more popular to have a winter fur coat if you can afford it. However, since the nation is struggling to bring its people out of poverty through development, its hardly the context to make political statements equating fur and death. If you are very sensitive to the issue, be sure not to visit a Chinese zoo.
Gender
Obviously, sexism exists in China, since there are fewer women in high level positions and people are rather outspoken about their preference for sons. However, don't expect Chinese women to be anything like the submissive Asian woman stereotypes in the west. The cultural codes for gender are not all the same as in Western cultures, but, as a foreigner, I cannot attempt to decode them for you without grossly over categorizing the characteristics of Chinese women, as well as men, so I won't. If you are a Westerner however, you will not be treated the same as a Chinese person, whether you are male or female, so its not urgent that you understand the complexities of gender construction here before going. However, if you are an American-born-Chinese (ABC) or of another Asian ancestry, it may be a different story for you, and perhaps worth the research.
Ancestry (Race)
You will encounter racism in China. If you are of African descent, be prepared for un-cloaked statements of ignorance. In the States, most people are taught not to express their prejudiced feelings openly, but its not the same in China. However, having said so, the ignorance you encounter in China may be preferable to the un-spoken biases, and sometimes hatred, in the States. Despite such ignorance, like your lighter skinned counterparts, you will still be welcomed by the Chinese as another foreign novelty, and people will want to get to know you. China has not been open to the outside world for very long, so they have many misconceptions about foreigners of Western descent and base most of their beliefs on what they've seen coming out of Hollywood.
(The racial hatred in China is primarily directed towards the Japanese, which is something to consider if you are of Japanese descent. However, there are pockets of young people who love Japanese culture and you would be greatly welcomed in those circles).
I certainly cannot say what your experience will be like in China if you don't have light skin color. I have heard that Professor Kesho Scott will never return to China after her encounters with racism there. She may be a good person to ask if you want to know how bad it can get.
Sexuality
There seems to be little sexual awareness here, thus little sexual identity. Perhaps people cross lines of sexuality, but they don't call it gay, and most likely there won't be any genital contact involved anyway, straight or gay. The current college generation seems to be more aware of sexual identity than their predecessors but there is still no concept of casual sex floating around. For the most part, love is not a separate phenomena from sex, which is good news for romantics. Yet this is sometimes a complaint of foreigners too, unless they are the type who are willing to pay for sexual services (which are available in any country).
Physical touching, particularly among the same sex, is not unusual. You might expect someone you met five minutes earlier to hold your hand or rest their hand on your leg while speaking. (It has been said that such physical intimacy is more noted in the northern areas than the south). If you do have a gay relationship in China, no one would ever suspect, since your behavior in public would appear as normal friendly affection. (Again, this is true for men as well as for women).
Basically, you shouldn't come to China if you are hoping to "whore around" for the year, whether you are gay or straight; you'll be disappointed. However, there is a level of innocence here that can be very refreshing, and most likely allow you to explore other parts of yourself in relationships that you might not have the same opportunity for at home. We are bombarded with sexual propaganda everyday in advertisements and movies and music, the Chinese are not (media is still censored here). If you'd like a little "debauchery" while abroad, your best bet might be associating with other foreigners, who on average, seem to have much looser morals concerning sex.
Condoms are available in "Protect Health" stores. The Chinese name for condoms:
An Quan Tao.
CULTURE SHOCK
Some Westerners say that they chose to move to China in order to experience a type of culture shock that a developed Europe could not provide. A year in China will certainly not leave your carefully constructed paradigm un-shifted. However true, not all sojourners have returned changed for the better. Those unprepared are sometimes unable to fulfill their job contracts or complete their programs of study. Depending on your location, you may experience anything at times from severe loneliness to below-poverty living conditions. If you are interested in experiencing China, chances are, you are already interested in facing such challenges. But, before leaving, stop by the CDO and pick up a book on culture shock. Understanding what you can expect to experience with culture shock might not change the experience, but it can help you deal with it.
Reverse Culture Shock
Ironically, returning home to the States can be a bigger mental shock than arriving in China. This is often true even if there have been no major changes in your surroundings, mainly, because the biggest change to have occurred will be in yourself. You probably will not have noticed all the subtle ways you had changed when adjusting to living in Chinese society. Again, stop by the CDO office and read up on the issue before leaving, so you will be aware of the symptoms if they occur.
TRAVELLING
Many foreign visitors like to travel around and see as much as possible while they are here. The Lonely Planet Guide to China is a good starting point for research.
If you are willing to travel Chinese style, it can be quite affordable, so don't dismiss any travel desires before a little research. Many foreigners stay in China a few months after their work contracts have ended just so they can travel. This method has many advantages, mainly since you will be more familiar with Chinese culture after having completed a work contract. More importantly, you will have met many people during your stay who most likely will not only have supplied you with more ideas for travel, but they will have also extended accommodation invitations or travel companion invitations. Most Chinese are very hospitable.
Here is a quick list of some of the most popular tourist sites among western visitors:
The Great Wall
The Three Gorges Dam Project
Yunnan Province (for its diverse ethnic cultures, diverse geography--and hemp cultivation)
The Tibetan Plateau
The Forbidden City
The Terrocata Warriors
The Harbin Ice Sculpture Festival
The most popular non-Chinese travel stops on the way home seem to be Tibet, Nepal, and or Thailand.
CRIME
Stories of crimes against foreigners vary from non-existent to rampant depending on who is consulted. There are stiff penalties for Chinese committing crimes against foreigners, but of course, penalties are not always a deterrent. Use an appropriate amount of caution regardless. As a Westerner, you will be viewed as a relatively affluent person. A money belt big enough to hold your passport, credit cards and traveller's cheques or cash can provide a significant measure of security, particularly if your luggage is stolen. Until you get settled into an area and become familiar with your surroundings, it may be best to heed the warnings of your employer or new friends about certain dangers.
If you need to report a crime, go to the nearest police station (or ask your employer to take you there if you need a translator). You will have to tell your story a few times, which will all be recorded on paper. Even if the aggressor is not found, the person in the vicinity with the most amount of responsibility for your safety will probably be fired (usually the guard on-duty during the time of the crime). If the criminal is found, he will be taken into custody and brought before you at which time the authorities will let you know his penalty. Your safety in China as a foreigner is taken quite seriously by the authorities, they don't want to lose foreign investors due to crime rates.
The emergency hotline number in China is not 911, its 119.
COMMUNICATIONS
Available in most areas:
Post Office (including express international services)
It costs about 160 Yuan or about $20 to send a small express package to the states, and is significantly cheaper for regular mail. However, if your family sends you a package while you are in China, be sure they send it express, as it could take up to four months to arrive otherwise. A care package wouldn't do you much good if it arrived after you left for home.
Fax Machines
Your place of employment will probably have a fax machine, but you can also find them at various stores if you'd like some privacy. However, sometimes electricity is cut off to save energy, during which times faxing will not be an option. While you can arrange for yourself when to fax, it can be a little more frustrating receiving faxes. U.S. business hours occur during Chinese sleeping hours (when many institutions cut off electricity, thus preventing you from receiving any incoming faxes).
Public Phones
There are telephone booths on the streets, as well as vendor attended phones that accept cash. You can buy IP or IC phone cards at most shops, which will allow you to make long distance calls from most any of these phones. A 30 Yuan card will allow you to call home for about 10 minutes.
Cell Phones
If you have a cell phone, you can take it with you and simply replace the SIM card in it after arriving in China. Go to any cell phone market to initiate such services. You can sometimes find free SIM cards if the phone number has many 4's in the number (Chinese don't like the number four, it sounds like the word for death in Chinese). You can request international calling services on your SIM card.
When calling a cell phone in China, you don't need to pay for long distance charges. Simply dial 179090 and then the cell phone number. This way only local calling charges apply.
Internet
Internet bars seem to be clustered around school campuses. You can download programs like MSN messenger service or use DialPad to speak to your family at home without paying long distances telephone charges. Some programs will allow you to talk from computer to computer, and some will allow you to call a phone from your computer. Talk to a UC on campus for advice before leaving. International calling rates are outrageously high. (You could of course simply use E-mail and chat programs, too, but your mom might like to hear your voice).
If you take your own computer and want to access the internet through your phone line, there are a few public internet services to choose from and the rates vary. You can register for an account at the Post Office, which is slightly discounted. To go directly online, use China's 163. Set up your dialup networking using 8163 for the username, password, and dialup number. This is a public account shared by many people. The charges will go to your phone bill automatically without you having to register.
SIMPLE CHINESE
If you have never studied Chinese, you might like to learn a few helpful phrases before going abroad. A short list of terms follows this paragraph. For help on pronunciation (which can be difficult for foreigners because Chinese is a tonal language) it might be helpful to ask a Chinese friend, Chinese language student, or stop by the Chinese language lab or Chinese table at Cowles. Print out a copy to carry around with you for reference.
Hello. Ni hao.
Goodbye. Zai jian.
Thankyou. Xie xie ni.
You're welcome. Bu yong xie.
My name is . . . Wo jiao . . .
I'd like this one. Wo yao zhei ge.
I don't want (any). Wo bu yao.
Where is the toilet? Ce suo zai na?
Where is the . . . . . . Zai na?
How much does it cost? Duo shao qian?
I can't understand (Chinese). Wo ting bu dong.
Can you speak English? Ni hui yingyu ma?
Good. Hao.
Beautiful. Piao liang.
I love you. Wo ai ni.
Okay, you won't use the last phrase everyday, but you never know . . .
GRINNELLIANS IN CHINA
This section provides short personal accounts of Grinnellians on their experiences or impressions of living in China. You can e-mail them with questions. Also, if you are a Grinnellian who has lived in China, don't hesitate to contribute your own personal account for this page.
Glenda Vickery
Chinese Major '00
In the fifth century before the common era, Confucius remarked what a joy it was to find friends coming from afar. How much more joyful is that visit when they are literally coming from the other side of the planet. I've made some unforgettable friends while in China, even if I didn't always understand those friendships in the beginning. Though I choose to reside primarily in the U.S., these friendships stay with me and are perhaps the most enduring and significant part of my days in China. But, you want to hear about China, so below is a very brief summary of some of my experience.
I spent an academic year in China as an undergraduate language student and later spent another two semesters in China teaching English after graduation. Some experiences between the two visits were remarkably similar. Both times I had to adjust to certain conditions, like extremely cold weather without adequate heating and hot water, or like developing the habit of carrying my own toilet paper, since it is not provided in most restrooms. One of the most frustrating adjustments (one which I hardly notice by the time of departure) on both trips was learning to force my way to a counter for service, since there were often an absence of queues. And I could recount hundreds of bureaucratic nightmares that ensured nothing about my experience could have been convenient. This is to say nothing of the unsanitary conditions faced everyday.
Yet, ironically, despite my complaints and frustration, this interruption of modern convenience in my daily lifestyle was always afterwards, perhaps, one of the most appreciated parts of my experience. It allowed me to learn my own priorities, my own pleasures, and a considerable amount of patience. Of course, I had my own ideas and perrogatives before going, but I realized that at home in an environment of consumer convenience it was often easier to default into any of the many options provided than to actively select and pursue something of interest or value.
I'd say that the most fun trip to China was definitely the first one, precisely because I didn't understand anything around me. My Chinese skills were almost non-existent, I couldn't read facial expressions or body gestures, nor did I have any sufficient understanding of the local cultural values. I was no longer surrounded by my own community where I knew quite well how society judged my actions. Moreover, in Chinese society, I was judged only as a foreigner, and not held to the same standards as a native. This marginal position created a situation or experience of incredible freedom (from social norms), allowing me to feel less and less inhibited.
While the first trip was a unique opportunity on a personal level, the second trip was probably more memorable and meaningful. During my second trip, the friends I made could not speak English, and I came to understand more than I ever cared to understand about Chinese society. Living amongst Chinese put my cold academic study of the society and my own stereotypes and ethnocentricity on a collision course. The result of this collision was ultimately, a more compassionate and much more complex academic approach to the issues confronting Chinese society, as well as, those confronting China-U.S. relations and the international community. After the second trip, China was no longer something abstract or exotic.
I'm certainly not an expert on Chinese society, and in fact, I can probably tell you more about a foreigner's experience in China than about China itself. But if you are contemplating your first trip to China, I can probably answer many of your questions. I always enjoy talking about it, so your emails are welcome.
This page was written for those students or recent graduates considering traveling to China for the first time, or making a second trip to China for the purpose of teaching English. Far from answering your questions exhaustively, this site is meant to be a starting place. Attempts have been made to provide additional contacts or resources under each section. Hopefully, this starting place will break down the preparation process into a more manageable and efficient approach by outlining some of the primary concerns to consider. Going to China can be an awesome experience and it doesn't need to be a difficult, frustrating ordeal to get there. Grinnell encourages students to go abroad as part of their liberal arts education, so pursue your interests.
PASSPORT
If you do not yet have a passport, you can find all the information you need at the following government site: http://travel.state.gov/passport_services.html. Before you make any other preparations, apply for your passport, as it can be a lengthy process. The passport is your identification as an American citizen.
Before going abroad, make a copy of your passport and pack it separately from the original. If you lose your passport, this copy will help you get a replacement. Ideally, you will want to go to the American Embassy with your passport and register upon arrival if there is one in your area. This way, the embassy will have a copy in the event that you lose your passport, and you can be located in the event of an emergency.
Passport Warning
Once in China, people will need to see your passport for various reasons, particularly to register you at the police station as a resident of the area. Aside from these initial registration routines, it is not customary to surrender your passport to anyone. If someone writes in your contract that you should surrender your passport to your employers, protest the terms of the contract. If such employers are not willing to negotiate contract terms, move on to another, more orthodox jobsite. There is always another school down the street desperate for English teachers.
VISA
You must obtain a Visa from the Chinese Embassy or Consulate in order to enter China. A Visa grants you permission to enter a country a certain number of times for a specific amount of time for a specific purpose. You can obtain a visa several ways depending on your circumstances. Unless you are only applying for a temporary tourist visa, you will need to present a letter of invitation from your employer or your school to the consulate when you apply. (Normally, you won't apply for your visa until after you have secured a job or been accepted into a program of study). You can find specific information on applying for your visa at http://www.china-embassy.org/eng/c2682.html.
Basically, you can expect to need:
$30
Job or school invitation letter
Passport
Possibly a physical exam.
AIRFARE
Search the internet for the best airfare rates. Laugh aloud at any 4 figure quotes and keep searching. Depending on the season you travel, you can sometimes find one-way fares for less than $400 and two-way fares for less than $700. (If you travel during peak seasons, like the end of August, a one-way ticket can cost as much as $700). Roundtrip airfare is not required for a visa to China, though most foreigners choose to buy a round-trip open-ended ticket.
Since you are probably going to China for an extended stay (and will want to pack a lot), be sure to ask about the weight limit on luggage before going to the airport. Penalties for overweight luggage can be more expensive than sending an express international package.
Note: If you are easily air-sick, consider flying with a western airline company. Chinese pilots sometimes fly planes the same way they drive cars: without any regard for your comfort or peace of mind. Otherwise, economy fares on most airlines include the same services.
TRAVEL NECESSITIES
Necessities for travel depend on the traveler but, there are a few things to keep in mind when going to China:
A. You will not be able to buy a bath towel in China that is half as good as one of your mother's old dish rags. The towels you will find on the Chinese market do not absorb much water and some shed lint on your body as you try to dry yourself. Pack one good towel.
B. Depending on which city you go to, you may not be able to find a single bottle of deodorant. So don't forget to pack a good supply of it, or instruct a family member to mail some to you.
C. If you are attached to any particular toiletries, pack a supply. Tampons are not easily found, and only the O.B. brand is available (without an applicator). Decide whether you want to trust Chinese condoms. Will any brand of soap be good enough, or do you have sensitive skin? There is not much room in one suitcase, but one or two trusted luxuries will go a long way for your mental health during your stay.
D. Consider any medical needs. If you live on Pepto Bismol, better pack a bottle. If you need birth control pills, consult your doctor about an adequate supply. And of course, if you take medication for any health condition, such as diabetes or depression, make a plan with your doctor before leaving town.
E. If you are a large person, height or weight wise, pack an adequate selection of clothing. Chinese clothes sizes on average are smaller. For example, a woman's shoe size 9 is extremely difficult to find in China, particularly southern China, unless you shop in the men's department. If you wear a medium in the States, you might have to wear XL in China. Despite the lack of selection, tailors are abundant in every city, so you can always go get measured for the outfit of your dreams for a reasonable price.
F. If you want unlimited internet access in your own room, consider carrying a laptop with you. (You will need a phone with local dialing access in your room). Laptops in China are quite expensive. If you do not have a severe addiction to the internet, you can just go to a local corner internet bar to check your email whenever its convenient.
Unless you have some odd food addiction, you can find almost any standard Western food item at specialty shops in larger cities of China (items such as ketchup, bacon, peanut butter, pasta, jam, etc.) Most importantly it should be noted that if you take nothing to China but a small overnight bag, you will still survive quite well on the abundant selection of products available on the Chinese market.
MONETARY CONCERNS
Basically, however much American money you take with you to China and convert is the same amount you will be allowed to convert back to American money and take with you when you leave. (So don't lose any of your exchange receipts). There are two exceptions to this. The first exception is changing money on the black market, which, of course, is not recommended since it is violating the laws of your host country. The second exception can be found in an employment contract. When negotiating your contract with potential employers, be sure to inquire about what percentage of your salary you will be able to convert to American dollars each month (an average is about 70 percent.) Upon arrival, you can exchange money at the airport and thereafter at the Bank of China.
The Bank of China will cash and convert Traveler's Cheques. They allow foreigners to open savings accounts, using US or PRC currency. In addition, they will wire money internationally (though this is quite costly). They will also allow you to draw money off of your credit card at the Bank of China. ATM machines are becoming more popular, but don't expect to be able to use them to draw money from your home bank account. The cost of living is cheap and western foreigners are paid well, so limited banking services shouldn't be a significant problem.
COST OF LIVING
The average Chinese salary is less than the salary you will receive. Unless you are a chronic compulsive spender, you probably won't be worrying about how to make ends meet. Most of your accommodations are provided through your employer or school, so your financial decisions will most likely not involve housing or utilities. If you indulge yourself with western luxuries occasionally (buy dairy products, take a taxi, hit the local disco on Saturday night, and regularly smoke cigarettes) you can survive on about $120-240 (roughly 1-2000 RMB) per month. If you are teaching English in China, your salary will be $200 (2000 RMB) plus. (If you want to drink American Whiskey, take taxis everywhere you go, and spend your weekends visiting other cities or tourist spots in China, you might need to take another small job--which is entirely possible).
Exchange Rate
Chinese currency is called RenMinBi (RMB), the people's money, a single unit being called Yuan. The exchange rate fluxuates around 8.2 RMB per US Dollar. You can find the current rate of exchange http://www.xe.com.
Prices
Here is a random list of approximate prices (which may vary slightly from city to city or vendor to vendor):
One can of Coca-cola 3 Yuan
One Chinese dinner at a restaurant 12 Yuan
McDonald's value meal 19 Yuan
Chinese cigarettes 5 Yuan
Chinese beer 4 Yuan
Taxi ride 5-25 Yuan
New bicycle 200 Yuan
VCD player 500 Yuan (and up)
VCDs, Cds, CdROMs 10 Yuan
Cell phone 1000 Yuan (and up)
Week supply of fresh vegetables 5 Yuan
Local bus ride 1 Yuan
Rent your own apartment
Big city (Beijing/Shanghai) 4000 Yuan per month (and up)
Small city (Dalian/Qingdao) 500 Yuan per month
T-shirt 30 Yuan
A Watermelon 2 Yuan (in season)
Internet Access (per hour) 3 Yuan
Qipao (traditional dress) 200 Yuan (and up)
Mosquito repellant incense 3 Yuan (per box of 10)
Public shower and massage 10 Yuan (and up)
House cleaning service 5 Yuan
Movie theater ticket 10 Yuan
MAP RESOURCES
You can find maps (in the English language) of China at the following website: http://www.theodora.com. If these maps are not detailed enough, try using a search engine, for example, www.google.com or www.metacrawler.com. The best all around starting place for your research, whether you are looking for maps or cuisine, will be the Lonely Planet's Guide to China.
TEACHING ENGLISH
How to Find Job Advertisements
There are more English teaching jobs in China than there are English teachers, so feel free to be selective. Because the school management, reputation, and contract conditions so often change, it is impractical to list contacts here. However, there are a growing amount of resources on the Internet, including job classifieds specifically tailored for English teaching jobs in China. The most favored site is Dave's ESL Café at www.eslcafe.com. Dave's site not only includes hundreds of updated job opportunities and contacts, but it also has sections for ESL teaching suggestions, school ratings, and much more. Another well liked site is www.teach-in-china.com. This site allows you to target specific areas of China for your job search, and also provides appropriate contact information for each school listed.
Choosing a School - Weighing Your Options
Contract Expectations: As a guideline, you should expect a school to provide you with airfare compensation, free accommodations, a monthly salary, and some limited medical insurance. On average, one semester of teaching merits compensation for one-way airfare, and one year of teaching merits compensation for your roundtrip fare. You must decide for yourself if the accommodations provided are acceptable. If you think you will not be comfortable to spend a year without a particular appliance, see if you can negotiate it, since employers are often willing to install a phone or a refrigerator in order to secure your teaching commitment. Again, an acceptable salary amount will depend on your own lifestyle needs. 2000 RMB per month will not leave you in a position of near-destitution by any stretch of the imagination, but it probably won't help you save up for a short trip to Nepal or Thailand on your way home. And as far as the medical insurance goes, don't expect it to cover your expenses at a western hospital, because its only good for limited services at the Chinese hospitals).
Salary: The average salary for an English teacher in China is between 2 - 8000 RMB per month, more than double most salaries of your counterpart Chinese teachers. Sometimes positions pay more, depending on how desperate or isolated the school is. Public schools will usually offer lower paying positions, because they are the better schools in China, often in better locations with better management, (so they do not have so much trouble recruiting new teachers despite the lower pay rates). If you want to find a higher paying job, you might try focusing your search on private institutions.
Accommodations: When choosing a school, pay close attention to the contract being offered. Most terms of the contract are negotiable, so don't sign the contract until you've had a chance to discuss matters of concern. (You will sign the contract after arriving, not before). Ask any question that comes to mind, don't just assume something is so basic that it will be provided. For example, if you are an athletic type person who showers twice a day, you might want to make sure you will have running water at least twice a day (and running water does not mean you will get hot water, you must ask). You will be a long way from home, so think carefully about whether you are willing to accept a contract that does not provide a phone, hot water, an ice-box, air-conditioning or heating. Some foreigners are willing to accept a lower paying job in order to work somewhere with more comfortable accommodations.
Teaching Hours: Pay attention to the number of hours you will be expected to teach. If you have a comfortable apartment provided and a decent salary, you might not be able to enjoy any of it if you are teaching 30 hours a week. Not only will you need to figure in extra time for class preparation, but standing up and talking for 30 hours in a week can exhaust you mentally as well as physically. A standard amount of teaching hours for one week is about 16 (which is about 19 classes). If you spend one hour preparing each class, that's about a forty-hour work week. How much you prepare depends on you and your students' needs. (Lower teaching hours are preferable, because you'll have the opportunity for overtime pay, or the time to occasionally teach in other locations by the hour for higher pay.)
Its advisable to secure employment with an institution before going to China, particularly if it is your first visit. This will simplify many bureaucratic matters, as well as provide you with a secure environment from which to begin exploring China. After one semester of teaching in a specific area, you will have learned what kind of options you have for working and living. Some teachers eventually find there own housing and do freelance teaching at various schools and businesses, making more money than they could under a contract and freeing themselves from obligations to a particular school or schedule. Initially however, contracting yourself with a host institution will provide a great amount of security. (You will not have trouble finding a job if you simply show up in China on a tourist visa, but you will have the added cost of a hotel when you first arrive, you might have less options to choose from for employment if you don't speak the language, and you might have to make a costly trip to Hong Kong afterwards to change your visa to a working status.)
While you only need to be a native English speaker to obtain most English teaching positions, the more advanced your degree, the more compensation you can demand. Therefore, teaching after you graduate from Grinnell will put you in a slightly better bargaining position than if you went before graduation. However, qualifications still mean very little here, so it is possible to obtain good paying jobs without a degree if you know the right people, if the school is desperate enough, or if you present yourself in a very impressive way. (If you are interested in going before graduating from Grinnell, read the section below on summer teaching contracts).
When to Go to China
If you want to go to China to teach before graduation, look for some private western companies that operate according to western school calendars. Such schools sometimes accept teachers for summer positions or other short-term contracts. In Northwest China there is a private American English school, AES, which offers such contracts in various cities. You can find AES listed in any of the websites mentioned under How to Locate Job Advertisements.
Normally, school semesters run from late August or early September until late January for the fall and from late February or early March until July for the spring. The major winter break holiday is, of course, not centered around Christmas, but around Chinese New Year based on their Lunar Calendar (which is usually around late January and early February).
Choosing a Geographical Location
If you do not speak Chinese, it is not advisable to go to an isolated area away from the ex-pat communities and educated Chinese in the larger cities. And even if you can speak some Chinese, you probably won't want to be too far outside a major urban area anyway. Below poverty conditions are abundant in the cities, so you don't need to go live in any strange locations if you are looking to see the diverse social strata of a rapidly developing China. The average standard of living in most cities is still below that of western countries and presents its own adjustment challenges. Usually, even die-hard Sino-philes don't want to be more than a short bus ride from a McDonald's for an occasional western food treat when homesickness sets in.
In a large city at least the following will be available in English:
One English news publication (state sponsored)
One English radio program (state sponsored)
One English television program (state sponsored)
English Cd's and VCD's (pirated music and movies)
19th century literature in the English language (for ESL readers)
A few good ESL speakers (English level doesn't guarantee a conversation level)
Censored internet access to English language sites (no New York Times, etc.)
Everything is censored, so the English language materials available to you will not always be desirable. Chinese media likes to report on how good things are, with the exception of whatever the United States is currently doing on the international scene. So, even in the big cities, you will experience a virtual black out of intelligent English discourse. Being able to find a few other foreigners for relaxation and conversation will a welcomed opportunity, but you will probably have to be in a big city to find other ex-pats.
If you don't want to be surrounded by other ex-pats, choose a Chinese run school with a few or no other foreign teachers. If you want to live with other ex-pats, choose a foreign run school with many foreign teachers. You might not want to live with other westerners if you hope to practice your Chinese outside of class everyday. On the other hand, you might enjoy living with other American, Canadian, British, and or Australian teachers. Remember to consider the number of ex-pat teachers employed at an institution as well as the type of management. Chinese management style tends to be much more bureaucratic and indirect, which can make your stay more frustrating. At any rate, you will have an abundance of choices within a large urban setting.
If you are a Chinese language student, you probably already know that China is divided by regions with different dialects. Roughly, the northern areas will be using Mandarin with variations of local accents. So, if you want practice your Mandarin, the south might not be an ideal location. If you are not a Chinese language student, it probably will not make any difference to you if people are speaking Cantonese, Fujianese, or Taiwanese. (It is said that most University environments will conduct activities in Mandarin on campus regardless the geographical location, as Mandarin is considered the standard).
Changing Schools - Problems with Your Host Institution
If you have a negative experience at an institution and believe that your experience is more related to institutional problems than to your own culture shock, don't be afraid to pick up and move to another school. Whether you quit or get fired, the next school will welcome you and be willing to negotiate more satisfying contract terms. You will be a very long way from home in an unfamiliar environment, so don't feel obligated to stay at an un-hospitable institution.
If you should decide to change schools after one semester, it is still possible to get compensation for your roundtrip fare, since the first school will compensate you for one-way, and the second school will also compensate you for a one-way fare (provided you commit a full semester to each institution). If you leave the school in the middle of the semester before your contract is completed, you might not get compensation. In this situation, you might have to decide between staying for airfare compensation or leaving for your own sanity. If you change schools early enough however, the next school may be willing to provide you with the semester's one-way airfare compensation if you negotiate that with them.
If you get fired, ironically, you should expect to receive your airfare compensation and often, at least an extra month's salary. Usually, this type of compensation is considered to be a humanitarian gesture, since you are too vulnerable here alone as a foreigner to be fired without any financial means of returning home or renting yourself an apartment. (Perhaps, they offer such humanitarian compensation also, because you have been registered at the police station as a guest of the host institution, which obligates them to a certain amount of responsibility for your safety.) At any rate, should you be fired, negotiate a compensation package before leaving the institution, don't let them just put you out in the street (though they probably wouldn't do something like this).
ESL TEACHING
Teaching ESL can be quite fun, particularly if you prepare fun lessons. The biggest challenge is coming up with lessons that can be interesting or exciting despite the limited language skills of your students. Simply reviewing grammar points will put everyone to sleep, including yourself. Dave's ESL site (mentioned under How to Find Job Advertisements) has a great selection of lesson ideas, but the Web is full of ESL resource sites. If you start running out of ideas, you can go to your corner Internet bar and use a search engine, like Google, Metacrawler, or Yahoo, to find ESL lessons. Some schools might ask you for a sample lesson as part of your application.
Here are three of my own lessons that were successful with all my students:
Lesson A: Commands and Body Movements
Part One: Act out several body gestures in front of the class and ask the students to describe those body gestures. Usually, they cannot describe any of them, so make a list of the board for them as you go along. When you have a good list on the board, go around the class asking students to act out the gesture on the board that you point to (to help them remember the gestures before beginning the exercise).
Part Two: Tell a student what to do, for example, "wave your hand". If the student does it correctly, he or she will then tell another student what to do, for example "shake hands with a neighbor". If the student answers incorrectly, he or she must remain standing until another student tells him or her to do something else, and he or she may only sit down after acting out the appropriate body gesture.
Examples: Wave your hand
Blink your eyes
Shake hands with someone
Wink your eye at someone
Shake your head
Raise your eyebrows
Shake your finger/fist at someone
Bat your eyelashes
Shrug your shoulders
Clear your throat
Cross your arms
Cough
Cross your legs
Hiccup
Put your hands on your hips
Sneeze
Goal: Giving commands is an easy grammar exercise and provides a context to practice new vocabulary. The vocabulary for this lesson is necessary to learn for recounting stories or events that involve people. Afterwards, the students should be able to use such expressions to describe someone's actions when they tell a story. For example, if I ask a student what his/her parents usually do when he/she gets a bad mark in school, I will expect the student to use phrases like, "my father shakes his head at me in disappointment" or "my mother raises her eyebrows in disbelief".
Lesson B: How to break up in English
Part One: Divide students into pairs. Assign each pair of students a different scenario for a couples quarrel. Have the students write a dialogue in which they must end their relationship or resolve their problem.
Part Two: After checking the dialogues and making corrections, have the students memorize their corrected dialogues and act them out during class.
Examples:
Partner A: You have dated Chris for three months. Chris is really sweet, but kind of boring. You recently met someone at work, but you don't want to ask out this new person until you've broken up with Chris.
Partner B: Chris, you really like Pat. Pat amazes you. You feel content just spending the evening sitting next to Pat watching TV. You feel like you would do anything to make Pat as happy as you are. Can you do anything to win Pat back?
Partner A: You recently had too much to drink at a party and kissed your best friend's steady lover. All of your mutual friends attended the party and saw what you did. You must have a talk with your best friend before your other friends do. You have no real interest in your best friend's lover, you cherish your best friend and want to maintain that relationship.
Partner B: You have been dreaming about the future with your lover and waiting for the right time to bring up the topic of commitment. You have intimately talked to your best friend about such feelings before. Now your friend confesses to having kissed your lover, how do you respond?
Goal: This lesson is better suited for more advanced students, but most levels enjoy this activity because it more closely reflects daily language challenges of interpersonal relationships. The goal is simply to express oneself emotionally in words, paying special attention to politeness. The students must consider the connotative meaning of words and the way they phrase sentences.
Lesson C: Every morning, this morning, tomorrow morning
Part One: Ask students what they do every morning when they wake up (this introduces the lesson in simple present tense). Write down on the board anything they cannot express (which is almost everything). Afterwards, drill them until they understand how to express each action.
Part Two: Change your question slightly by asking what a student did this morning (changing to simple past tense), and ask the next student what he or she will do tomorrow morning.
Examples:
Opened my eyes Took off my pajamas
Turned off my alarm clock Put on some pants
Got out of bed Zipped up and buttoned my pants
Put on my slippers Put on a shirt and buttoned it up
Went to the bathroom Put on socks and shoes
Wet my face Tied my shoes
Used soap to wash my face Brushed my hair
Used clean water to rinse my face Put on my watch and glasses
Wiped my face dry with a towel
Used a toothbrush and toothpaste to brush my teeth
Goal: To increase the students vocabulary for describing daily tasks. Most students know the word "clean" but they don't know "wipe", "rinse", "mop", "brush" etcetera. They know how to say put on clothes, but they usually don't have any vocabulary for zipping, buckling, ironing, hanging, folding, etc. By asking the question in different time periods, the students can practice shifting verb tenses.
STUDYING CHINESE IN CHINA
For specific information on programs and requirements contact the Chinese Department http://www.grinnell.edu/academics/areas/chinese-japanese or the Office of Off-Campus Study http://www.grinnell.edu/academics/areas/east-asian. They can help you determine what programs can be accepted for transfer credit (if you study abroad in China as an undergraduate student).
If you would like to study Chinese while you are working in China, request your future employer to find out what programs are available in the area you will be teaching. A larger city like Beijing will have many part-time programs, while in smaller cities you may have to hire a private Chinese teacher/tutor. Hiring a private teacher can be quite affordable, since there is a high workforce supply and a low customer demand. For a program of classes in most schools, be prepared to pay tuition rates that are roughly equivalent to fees of public schools in the U.S. Discuss the options with your employer before leaving,. They may be willing to offer you a tutor free of charge, initially, to help you learn enough words to get around town.
Language Partners
Beware of the language partner invitations. Every one in China now must study English beginning in Junior Middle School. Many people simply want the opportunity to practice with a native speaker. You will likely be bombarded by offers after arriving. Choose carefully, not so much because someone might take advantage of you, but because its easy to overextend yourself with so many friendly invitations. You will have to turn people down, so don't be afraid to turn down the first few people you meet (with a polite reason) if you are not comfortable. Otherwise you could fill up your schedule with a few opportunists with whom you've nothing in common.
NETWORKING or GUANXI
Almost anything you do in China will be a result of networking. There is only one thing better than knowing how to do something in China, and that is knowing people. Sometimes this so-called networking is a nice word for corruption, but usually its just people helping each other. If you need anything while you are in China, tell everyone you meet what you are looking for and usually many opportunities will begin to appear. You might want to find a new job, a good foreign restaurant, or just figure out how to mail a package at the post office. The point however, is that knowing people in China is much more important than your resume or qualifications.
This kind of network expands to people you won't really consider to be your friends, so it is not wise to burn bridges with people here, unless the situation demands it. Remember, such people may not consider you an intimate friend either, but they will still do a favor for you willingly. Implicit in this, of course, is that when other's are looking for something, they will also let you know. If you can help, great, if not, its worth your time to casually ask other people you know if they can help the person in need. Doing so will build up your Guanxi, literally, your relationships (which ideally, will open more and more options for you in Chinese society).
SOME GRINNELLIAN CONCERNS
Environmentalism
Expect little environmental concern. That heavy fog you see when you get off the plane, its smog. (China still uses coal for an energy source). Expect people to be smoking right under the NO SMOKING signs, on the bus, in the elevator, and sometimes even in the classroom. Don't look for trashcans on the street, you'll notice small piles of trash where you can deposit your garbage. If you have a weak stomach, try not to breath (or look) when you use a Chinese toilet. (And don't go anywhere without a supply of your own toilet paper). If you believe that 'cleanliness is next to godliness,' China might not be the place for you.
Vegetarianism / Animal Rights
Forget anything you ever heard about Asian diets being healthy. Learn how to say "not so much oil" and "no MSG" in Chinese. You won't likely ever be served a big honkin' piece of steak here, but hardly any dish is without meat strips for flavoring. Contrary to popular Western belief, there is no significant population of vegetarian Buddhists living in China. Still, you should be able to maintain a descent diet if you study the local menus or ask around. (Tofu is the most popular alternative here for vegetarian foreigners, but don't expect to find an abundant supply or selection of beans in China . )
With so much controversy between the U.S. and China over human rights, don't expect to see much in the way of animal rights. As standards of living gradually rise for many Chinese in the cities, it seems popular to have a small dog for pet (rather than for dinner), but its also more popular to have a winter fur coat if you can afford it. However, since the nation is struggling to bring its people out of poverty through development, its hardly the context to make political statements equating fur and death. If you are very sensitive to the issue, be sure not to visit a Chinese zoo.
Gender
Obviously, sexism exists in China, since there are fewer women in high level positions and people are rather outspoken about their preference for sons. However, don't expect Chinese women to be anything like the submissive Asian woman stereotypes in the west. The cultural codes for gender are not all the same as in Western cultures, but, as a foreigner, I cannot attempt to decode them for you without grossly over categorizing the characteristics of Chinese women, as well as men, so I won't. If you are a Westerner however, you will not be treated the same as a Chinese person, whether you are male or female, so its not urgent that you understand the complexities of gender construction here before going. However, if you are an American-born-Chinese (ABC) or of another Asian ancestry, it may be a different story for you, and perhaps worth the research.
Ancestry (Race)
You will encounter racism in China. If you are of African descent, be prepared for un-cloaked statements of ignorance. In the States, most people are taught not to express their prejudiced feelings openly, but its not the same in China. However, having said so, the ignorance you encounter in China may be preferable to the un-spoken biases, and sometimes hatred, in the States. Despite such ignorance, like your lighter skinned counterparts, you will still be welcomed by the Chinese as another foreign novelty, and people will want to get to know you. China has not been open to the outside world for very long, so they have many misconceptions about foreigners of Western descent and base most of their beliefs on what they've seen coming out of Hollywood.
(The racial hatred in China is primarily directed towards the Japanese, which is something to consider if you are of Japanese descent. However, there are pockets of young people who love Japanese culture and you would be greatly welcomed in those circles).
I certainly cannot say what your experience will be like in China if you don't have light skin color. I have heard that Professor Kesho Scott will never return to China after her encounters with racism there. She may be a good person to ask if you want to know how bad it can get.
Sexuality
There seems to be little sexual awareness here, thus little sexual identity. Perhaps people cross lines of sexuality, but they don't call it gay, and most likely there won't be any genital contact involved anyway, straight or gay. The current college generation seems to be more aware of sexual identity than their predecessors but there is still no concept of casual sex floating around. For the most part, love is not a separate phenomena from sex, which is good news for romantics. Yet this is sometimes a complaint of foreigners too, unless they are the type who are willing to pay for sexual services (which are available in any country).
Physical touching, particularly among the same sex, is not unusual. You might expect someone you met five minutes earlier to hold your hand or rest their hand on your leg while speaking. (It has been said that such physical intimacy is more noted in the northern areas than the south). If you do have a gay relationship in China, no one would ever suspect, since your behavior in public would appear as normal friendly affection. (Again, this is true for men as well as for women).
Basically, you shouldn't come to China if you are hoping to "whore around" for the year, whether you are gay or straight; you'll be disappointed. However, there is a level of innocence here that can be very refreshing, and most likely allow you to explore other parts of yourself in relationships that you might not have the same opportunity for at home. We are bombarded with sexual propaganda everyday in advertisements and movies and music, the Chinese are not (media is still censored here). If you'd like a little "debauchery" while abroad, your best bet might be associating with other foreigners, who on average, seem to have much looser morals concerning sex.
Condoms are available in "Protect Health" stores. The Chinese name for condoms:
An Quan Tao.
CULTURE SHOCK
Some Westerners say that they chose to move to China in order to experience a type of culture shock that a developed Europe could not provide. A year in China will certainly not leave your carefully constructed paradigm un-shifted. However true, not all sojourners have returned changed for the better. Those unprepared are sometimes unable to fulfill their job contracts or complete their programs of study. Depending on your location, you may experience anything at times from severe loneliness to below-poverty living conditions. If you are interested in experiencing China, chances are, you are already interested in facing such challenges. But, before leaving, stop by the CDO and pick up a book on culture shock. Understanding what you can expect to experience with culture shock might not change the experience, but it can help you deal with it.
Reverse Culture Shock
Ironically, returning home to the States can be a bigger mental shock than arriving in China. This is often true even if there have been no major changes in your surroundings, mainly, because the biggest change to have occurred will be in yourself. You probably will not have noticed all the subtle ways you had changed when adjusting to living in Chinese society. Again, stop by the CDO office and read up on the issue before leaving, so you will be aware of the symptoms if they occur.
TRAVELLING
Many foreign visitors like to travel around and see as much as possible while they are here. The Lonely Planet Guide to China is a good starting point for research.
If you are willing to travel Chinese style, it can be quite affordable, so don't dismiss any travel desires before a little research. Many foreigners stay in China a few months after their work contracts have ended just so they can travel. This method has many advantages, mainly since you will be more familiar with Chinese culture after having completed a work contract. More importantly, you will have met many people during your stay who most likely will not only have supplied you with more ideas for travel, but they will have also extended accommodation invitations or travel companion invitations. Most Chinese are very hospitable.
Here is a quick list of some of the most popular tourist sites among western visitors:
The Great Wall
The Three Gorges Dam Project
Yunnan Province (for its diverse ethnic cultures, diverse geography--and hemp cultivation)
The Tibetan Plateau
The Forbidden City
The Terrocata Warriors
The Harbin Ice Sculpture Festival
The most popular non-Chinese travel stops on the way home seem to be Tibet, Nepal, and or Thailand.
CRIME
Stories of crimes against foreigners vary from non-existent to rampant depending on who is consulted. There are stiff penalties for Chinese committing crimes against foreigners, but of course, penalties are not always a deterrent. Use an appropriate amount of caution regardless. As a Westerner, you will be viewed as a relatively affluent person. A money belt big enough to hold your passport, credit cards and traveller's cheques or cash can provide a significant measure of security, particularly if your luggage is stolen. Until you get settled into an area and become familiar with your surroundings, it may be best to heed the warnings of your employer or new friends about certain dangers.
If you need to report a crime, go to the nearest police station (or ask your employer to take you there if you need a translator). You will have to tell your story a few times, which will all be recorded on paper. Even if the aggressor is not found, the person in the vicinity with the most amount of responsibility for your safety will probably be fired (usually the guard on-duty during the time of the crime). If the criminal is found, he will be taken into custody and brought before you at which time the authorities will let you know his penalty. Your safety in China as a foreigner is taken quite seriously by the authorities, they don't want to lose foreign investors due to crime rates.
The emergency hotline number in China is not 911, its 119.
COMMUNICATIONS
Available in most areas:
Post Office (including express international services)
It costs about 160 Yuan or about $20 to send a small express package to the states, and is significantly cheaper for regular mail. However, if your family sends you a package while you are in China, be sure they send it express, as it could take up to four months to arrive otherwise. A care package wouldn't do you much good if it arrived after you left for home.
Fax Machines
Your place of employment will probably have a fax machine, but you can also find them at various stores if you'd like some privacy. However, sometimes electricity is cut off to save energy, during which times faxing will not be an option. While you can arrange for yourself when to fax, it can be a little more frustrating receiving faxes. U.S. business hours occur during Chinese sleeping hours (when many institutions cut off electricity, thus preventing you from receiving any incoming faxes).
Public Phones
There are telephone booths on the streets, as well as vendor attended phones that accept cash. You can buy IP or IC phone cards at most shops, which will allow you to make long distance calls from most any of these phones. A 30 Yuan card will allow you to call home for about 10 minutes.
Cell Phones
If you have a cell phone, you can take it with you and simply replace the SIM card in it after arriving in China. Go to any cell phone market to initiate such services. You can sometimes find free SIM cards if the phone number has many 4's in the number (Chinese don't like the number four, it sounds like the word for death in Chinese). You can request international calling services on your SIM card.
When calling a cell phone in China, you don't need to pay for long distance charges. Simply dial 179090 and then the cell phone number. This way only local calling charges apply.
Internet
Internet bars seem to be clustered around school campuses. You can download programs like MSN messenger service or use DialPad to speak to your family at home without paying long distances telephone charges. Some programs will allow you to talk from computer to computer, and some will allow you to call a phone from your computer. Talk to a UC on campus for advice before leaving. International calling rates are outrageously high. (You could of course simply use E-mail and chat programs, too, but your mom might like to hear your voice).
If you take your own computer and want to access the internet through your phone line, there are a few public internet services to choose from and the rates vary. You can register for an account at the Post Office, which is slightly discounted. To go directly online, use China's 163. Set up your dialup networking using 8163 for the username, password, and dialup number. This is a public account shared by many people. The charges will go to your phone bill automatically without you having to register.
SIMPLE CHINESE
If you have never studied Chinese, you might like to learn a few helpful phrases before going abroad. A short list of terms follows this paragraph. For help on pronunciation (which can be difficult for foreigners because Chinese is a tonal language) it might be helpful to ask a Chinese friend, Chinese language student, or stop by the Chinese language lab or Chinese table at Cowles. Print out a copy to carry around with you for reference.
Hello. Ni hao.
Goodbye. Zai jian.
Thankyou. Xie xie ni.
You're welcome. Bu yong xie.
My name is . . . Wo jiao . . .
I'd like this one. Wo yao zhei ge.
I don't want (any). Wo bu yao.
Where is the toilet? Ce suo zai na?
Where is the . . . . . . Zai na?
How much does it cost? Duo shao qian?
I can't understand (Chinese). Wo ting bu dong.
Can you speak English? Ni hui yingyu ma?
Good. Hao.
Beautiful. Piao liang.
I love you. Wo ai ni.
Okay, you won't use the last phrase everyday, but you never know . . .
GRINNELLIANS IN CHINA
This section provides short personal accounts of Grinnellians on their experiences or impressions of living in China. You can e-mail them with questions. Also, if you are a Grinnellian who has lived in China, don't hesitate to contribute your own personal account for this page.
Glenda Vickery
Chinese Major '00
In the fifth century before the common era, Confucius remarked what a joy it was to find friends coming from afar. How much more joyful is that visit when they are literally coming from the other side of the planet. I've made some unforgettable friends while in China, even if I didn't always understand those friendships in the beginning. Though I choose to reside primarily in the U.S., these friendships stay with me and are perhaps the most enduring and significant part of my days in China. But, you want to hear about China, so below is a very brief summary of some of my experience.
I spent an academic year in China as an undergraduate language student and later spent another two semesters in China teaching English after graduation. Some experiences between the two visits were remarkably similar. Both times I had to adjust to certain conditions, like extremely cold weather without adequate heating and hot water, or like developing the habit of carrying my own toilet paper, since it is not provided in most restrooms. One of the most frustrating adjustments (one which I hardly notice by the time of departure) on both trips was learning to force my way to a counter for service, since there were often an absence of queues. And I could recount hundreds of bureaucratic nightmares that ensured nothing about my experience could have been convenient. This is to say nothing of the unsanitary conditions faced everyday.
Yet, ironically, despite my complaints and frustration, this interruption of modern convenience in my daily lifestyle was always afterwards, perhaps, one of the most appreciated parts of my experience. It allowed me to learn my own priorities, my own pleasures, and a considerable amount of patience. Of course, I had my own ideas and perrogatives before going, but I realized that at home in an environment of consumer convenience it was often easier to default into any of the many options provided than to actively select and pursue something of interest or value.
I'd say that the most fun trip to China was definitely the first one, precisely because I didn't understand anything around me. My Chinese skills were almost non-existent, I couldn't read facial expressions or body gestures, nor did I have any sufficient understanding of the local cultural values. I was no longer surrounded by my own community where I knew quite well how society judged my actions. Moreover, in Chinese society, I was judged only as a foreigner, and not held to the same standards as a native. This marginal position created a situation or experience of incredible freedom (from social norms), allowing me to feel less and less inhibited.
While the first trip was a unique opportunity on a personal level, the second trip was probably more memorable and meaningful. During my second trip, the friends I made could not speak English, and I came to understand more than I ever cared to understand about Chinese society. Living amongst Chinese put my cold academic study of the society and my own stereotypes and ethnocentricity on a collision course. The result of this collision was ultimately, a more compassionate and much more complex academic approach to the issues confronting Chinese society, as well as, those confronting China-U.S. relations and the international community. After the second trip, China was no longer something abstract or exotic.
I'm certainly not an expert on Chinese society, and in fact, I can probably tell you more about a foreigner's experience in China than about China itself. But if you are contemplating your first trip to China, I can probably answer many of your questions. I always enjoy talking about it, so your emails are welcome.
